Blood, sweat, and human trafficking: How sugar created slavery (2/2) | DW Documentary
发布时间 2026-03-13 01:15:07 来源
It's not possible. He's the one who makes you do it. Sugar has conquered the world. No revolution, no end to slavery, no war and no crisis has been able to halt its relentless march. At the start of the 20th century, the sugar industry grew even more powerful as a new player sees control of the market, the United States. American imperialism and American sugar policy went hand in hand. New markets, new products and exorbitant profits, more than ever, sugar has the world in its grip. The industry knows no limits. Sugar, a bitter sweet pleasure.
这不可能。他是让你这样做的人。糖已经征服了全世界。没有任何革命、奴隶制的终结、战争或危机能够阻止它无情的扩张。在20世纪初，随着美国成为市场的新主导者，制糖业变得更加强大。美国的帝国主义和糖政策密切结合。新的市场、新的产品和巨额利润，使得糖比以往任何时候都更紧紧地掌控着世界。这个行业没有界限。糖，这种苦中带甜的享受。
If the history of sugar is associated with changes in the European diet through the 18th and 19th century, by the 20th century, the pioneer for a long of those changes is definitely the United States. There's actually began in the late 19th century. More and more people moved to cities. Food had to be supplied more efficiently. People could no longer grow their own food. They had to buy it. Manufacture receives the opportunity and began producing processed non-perishable foods. And so that food revolution really served the function of putting sugar everywhere in all sorts of consumables that we buy off the shelf.
如果说糖的历史与18到19世纪欧洲饮食的变化有关，那么到了20世纪，这些变化的先驱无疑是美国。这实际上始于19世纪后期。越来越多的人开始迁移到城市，食物需要更高效地供应。人们再也不能自己种植食物，而是必须购买它。制造业看到了这个机会，开始生产加工过的、不会很快变质的食品。于是，这场食品革命实际上起到了将糖广泛应用于我们从货架上购买的各种消费品中的作用。
Sugar keeps food from spoiling. Sugar slips into our diet in all sorts of pernicious ways. And I think that with the arrival of sort of mass-produced branded foods, maybe people become even less conscious of how much sugar they're eating. Since the late 19th century, the US has been exporting a steady stream of new products across the globe. Fast food, ice cream and soft drinks. It's the golden age of sugar. Around 1900, soft drinks became popular. When people sat down to tea or coffee, they ate sweets, cakes and chocolates, which were now produced in large quantities on assembly lines.
糖可以防止食物变质。然而，糖以各种不易察觉的方式渗入我们的饮食。我认为随着大规模生产的品牌食品的出现，人们可能更加无意识地摄入了大量的糖。从19世纪晚期开始，美国就不断向全球出口各种新产品，比如快餐、冰淇淋和软饮料。这是糖的黄金时代。大约在1900年，软饮料开始流行。当人们坐下来喝茶或咖啡时，他们会吃一些糖果、蛋糕和巧克力，而这些食品如今已经可以在装配线上大量生产。
By then, sweets had reached the middle class. At first, they were consumed only on Sundays, but soon they became part of everyday life. Sugar was unstoppable. In 1800, people in England consumed an average of almost 9 kilos of sugar per year. A little more than a century later, consumption in the US had risen to around 30 kilos per person. During the same period, the world's population nearly doubled, while the US population increased more than 12 fold. Demand exploded and the food industry craved sugar more than ever.
到那时，糖果已经进入中产阶级的生活。起初，人们只在星期天才吃糖果，但很快它就成了日常生活的一部分。糖的流行势不可挡。在1800年，英国人均每年消耗将近9公斤的糖。一个多世纪后，美国的人均糖消耗量已经上涨到大约30公斤。同一时期，全球人口几乎翻了一番，而美国人口更是增加了12倍以上。需求迅速增长，食品行业对糖的需求比以往任何时候都更为迫切。
It's really important to us to emphasize this plantation kept operating until 1973. Most people don't know that people continued to live on plantations for that long. When slavery was abolished in the United States in 1865, after the Civil War, sugar farmers in Louisiana feared for their income. But like the French and English plantation owners in the Caribbean, in Mauritius and Henri-Union, they adapted to the new conditions. Before long, the sugar industry was flourishing once again along the banks of the Mississippi.
我们非常重视强调这一点：这个种植园一直运营到1973年。大多数人并不知道，有人持续在种植园生活了那么长时间。1865年美国内战后，奴隶制被废除，路易斯安那州的蔗糖种植农场主担心他们的收入。但是，就像加勒比地区、毛里求斯和亨利-联合等地的法英种植园主一样，他们适应了新的情况。不久之后，密西西比河沿岸的制糖业再次繁荣起来。
These were businesses that didn't just stop just because slavery ended. The people who ran these businesses were still interested in making money. In a lot of ways, the interest was not in figuring out how to restructure society after the Civil War. It was instead how do we continue to do the thing we did before but without slavery? So they just replaced slavery with wage labor. These photos were taken years after the Civil War and the end of slavery. The workers and their families shown here were supposedly free.
这些企业并没有因为奴隶制的结束而停止运作。经营这些企业的人仍然一心想赚钱。在许多方面，他们并不关心如何在内战后重建社会，而是寻找如何在没有奴隶制的情况下继续以往的经营方式。因此，他们只是用工资劳动取代了奴隶制。这些照片是在内战结束和奴隶制废除多年后拍摄的。照片中展示的工人及其家庭名义上是自由的。
The government had promised them 40 acres and a mule, land that could help provide economic independence. But large sugar cane plantations remained intact and the promises of land were never kept. To survive, freed people took up their machetes once more and returned to work for their former masters. The planter power was so complete. There was a major strike here. The response from the planters from that event was to create essentially their own militias.
政府曾承诺他们每人40英亩土地和一头骡子，这片土地可以帮助他们实现经济独立。但那些大型甘蔗种植园却丝毫未被分割，土地的承诺也从未兑现。为了生存，获得自由的人们再次拿起砍刀，回到他们从前的主人那里工作。种植园主的势力非常强大。这里还发生了一次大规模罢工。对此，种植园主成立了自己的民兵组织。
In 1887, when the Knights of Labor organized about 10,000 workers around Tibido, the planters, the planters association, was intimately involved in the suppression of that strike which was brutally violent. On November 23rd, 1887, an estimated 60 striking black sugar workers and protesters were shot and killed by police and militia in Tibidou, Louisiana. In a letter, a landowner's widow welcomed the massacre, saying it should settle the question of who is to rule, white or blacks for the next 50 years.
1887年，当劳工骑士团在提比多（Tibido）组织了大约10,000名工人时，种植者和种植者协会积极参与镇压这次罢工，过程极为暴力。1887年11月23日，在路易斯安那州提比多，大约60名参加罢工的黑人糖厂工人和抗议者被警方和民兵开枪打死。一位地主的遗孀在信中对这场屠杀表示欢迎，她说这应该能解决未来50年到底是白人还是黑人来统治的问题。
In Louisiana and across the south, plantation owners used their economic and local influence to uphold racial segregation and sustain white supremacy, while tolerating violence as a tool of racial control. Meanwhile, on the plantations, work conditions remained largely unchanged. What mattered most was that sugar cane continued to grow, refineries continued to operate and business boomed. At the turn of the century, the heart of America's sugar empire lay on the east coast.
在路易斯安那州和整个南部，种植园主利用他们的经济和地方影响力来维持种族隔离和白人至上的局面，同时容忍暴力作为种族控制的工具。与此同时，种植园上的工作条件几乎没有变化。最重要的是甘蔗继续生长，炼糖厂继续运作，生意兴隆。世纪之交时，美国糖业帝国的核心地带位于东海岸。
And it had a face. Henry Osborne Havemeier. He helped shape American sugar imperialism. Havemeier emerged as the first modern sugar baron, comparable to Rockefeller in the oil industry. Within a few years, he controlled most US sugar refineries and built the American sugar refining company. By the early 20th century, it dominated the industry, processing 98% of America's sugar. It was one of the most powerful economic conglomerates in the US. On the other, it dictated the selling price of refined sugar and kept it high to increase profits. And it worked very well. The US government tried successfully to break the cartel. Sugar was unstoppable.
它有一个名字：亨利·奥斯本·哈维梅尔。他是塑造美国糖业帝国的重要人物，被称为现代糖业大亨，类似于石油业的洛克菲勒。在短短几年内，他掌控了美国大部分的糖精炼厂，并建立了美国糖精炼公司。到20世纪初，该公司在行业中占据主导地位，处理了美国98%的糖。它是美国最强大的经济集团之一。一方面，它控制了精制糖的售价，并将其保持在高位以增加利润。这样的策略非常有效。美国政府不得不努力去瓦解这个垄断集团，但糖业势不可挡。
1898 was the year of conquests. In April, the United States declared war on Spain. At the beginning of the 19th century, Spain lost most of its empire and its status as a world power. But it still controlled three island territories, Cuba, Puerto Rico and the Philippines. Cuba was the richest colony, not only within the Spanish empire, but among colonial territories worldwide. It was also the world's largest producer of sugar, though it's Cuba. Most of the sugar produced in Cuba flew into the US. After the US defeated Spain in 1898, American interests rushed in. Havemeier seized the opportunity to expand his investments in Cuba, soon gaining control of several refineries on the island.
1898年是征服之年。4月，美国对西班牙宣战。19世纪初，西班牙失去了大部分帝国和世界强国的地位。但它仍然控制着三个岛屿领地：古巴、波多黎各和菲律宾。古巴不仅是整个西班牙帝国中最富有的殖民地，也是全球殖民领地中最富有的。作为世界上最大的糖生产地，古巴的大部分糖都运往美国。1898年美国击败西班牙后，美国的商业利益迅速进入古巴。哈夫梅尔抓住机会扩大在古巴的投资，很快就控制了岛上的几家炼糖厂。
Sugar is a central element in the relationship between the US and Cuba. Spain's defeat marked the collapse of its remaining colonial empire in the Americas and the Pacific. The US occupied the Philippines and annexed Puerto Rico. Cuba gained independence but remained under US military administration. The US and the US fought for the United States. Cuba played a long, supplying the United States and the American food industry with vast quantities of raw sugar. Plantations were modernized to meet this growing demand, but this did little to improve working conditions.
糖在美国和古巴的关系中是一个核心元素。西班牙战败标志着其在美洲和太平洋地区残余殖民帝国的崩溃。美国占领了菲律宾并吞并了波多黎各。古巴虽然获得了独立，但仍然处于美国的军事管理之下。美国和古巴之间的贸易关系加强，古巴长期以来向美国及其食品工业供应大量原糖。为了满足这种不断增长的需求，种植园进行了现代化改造，但这对改善工人的工作条件几乎没有帮助。
In Cuba, the sugar economy created a new social order. On one side stood former slaves turned wage labourers, Chinese contract workers, impoverished migrants from Europe, and seasonal workers from Haiti and Jamaica, all hoping to find work on sugar plantations, opposite them to the sugar aristocracy, Creole and Spanish planter families who owned vast estates known as centrals, and maintained close ties to political power and to the United States. While poverty and hunger gripped the countryside, Cuban elites gathered in the clubs and casinos of Habana. The island was split into two worlds, the sugar plantations and high society, and the gap between them kept widening.
在古巴，糖业经济创造了一种新的社会秩序。一方面是那些希望在糖种植园找到工作的群体，包括从前的奴隶转变为雇佣工人的人、中国契约工人、来自欧洲的贫困移民以及来自海地和牙买加的季节性工人。与他们相对的是糖业贵族——克里奥尔人和西班牙种植园家族，他们拥有被称为“中央”的大型庄园，并与政治权力和美国保持紧密联系。虽然贫困和饥饿笼罩着乡村，但古巴的精英们却聚集在哈瓦那的俱乐部和赌场。这个岛屿分裂成两个世界：糖种植园的劳工世界和上流社会，而这两者之间的差距却在不断扩大。
In Eastern Cuba, many farmers lost their land as large sugar plantations expanded during the night. In the 2010s and 1920s, there were periodic local protests and armed resistance against plantation conditions. It was no accident that Fidel Castro's guerrilla war began in this part of Cuba. Precision that to deal from Cuba is for owner. The son of a large landowner, the young lawyer represented expropriated farmers and victims of the sugar industry.
在古巴东部，很多农民因为大型糖厂的扩张而失去了他们的土地。在20世纪10年代和20年代，当地曾多次爆发针对种植园条件的抗议和武装抵抗。菲德尔·卡斯特罗的游击战争正是在古巴的这一地区开始，这绝非偶然。作为一个大地主的儿子，这位年轻的律师代表被征用土地的农民和糖业的受害者发声。
In the 1950s, Fidel Castro led the armed struggle against the dictatorship of General Batista. On January 1st 1959, his rebel army entered Habana, the revolution claimed victory. The Guajiros, sugarcane cutters with their machetes, were now celebrated as heroes. The American sugar factories were soon nationalized, plantations were collectivized, and the land was distributed. Large landowners fled, but Cuba's sugar story was far from over. And there was nothing we would cut the cane. There was a lot of cane and we had to cut it. The imperialists were afraid of it. Well, we didn't. Because we will cut it to the last one.
在1950年代，菲德尔·卡斯特罗领导武装斗争，反对巴蒂斯塔将军的独裁统治。1959年1月1日，他的叛军进入哈瓦那，革命获得胜利。农民们，曾经手持长刀的甘蔗工人，如今被誉为英雄。美国的糖厂很快被国有化，种植园被集体化，土地被重新分配。大地主们纷纷逃离，但古巴的甘蔗故事远未结束。即便面对大量的甘蔗需要砍伐，我们也无所畏惧。帝国主义者害怕这些，而我们不会。因为我们将坚持砍伐，直到最后一根甘蔗。
The US trade embargo cut off the American market, but it was soon replaced by the vast Soviet market. Cuba's leadership doubled down on sugar, setting ever more ambitious quotas. In 1970, the target was 10 million tons. Students arrived from all corners of the world to cut sugarcane. Among them, some Castro supporters from the United States. Sugar was the fuel of the revolution until the source began to dry up. In Tyre Force, land was cleared to make room for sugarcane cultivation. Cultivar caña de azúcar, which is a caña de azúcar that gradually depleted the soil of its nutrients.
美国的贸易禁运切断了美国市场，但很快被广大的苏联市场取代。古巴的领导层加倍努力发展糖业，设定了更高的生产目标。1970年的目标是1000万吨。来自世界各地的学生来到这里砍甘蔗，其中包括一些来自美国的卡斯特罗支持者。糖是革命的动力，直到资源开始枯竭。在“轮胎力量”计划中，土地被清理出来用于种植甘蔗。然而，种植甘蔗逐渐耗尽了土壤的养分。
Soil erosion followed, and after 40 or 50 years, much of the land was barely productive. As a result, many sugar mills were abandoned or moved to other locations. Today, Cuba produces very little sugar and is forced to import it. A society that once generated great wealth through the production and export of sugar now depends on sugar brought in from abroad. Sugar was the backbone of the Cuban economy, but depleted soils and the collapse of the Soviet Union broke it. How can a country free itself from a commodity for which it was once conquered, colonized, and exploited? And what comes after sugar? Caribbean countries are still wrestling with this question.
土壤侵蚀随之而来，经过四五十年，大片土地几乎失去生产力。结果，许多糖厂要么被废弃，要么被迁往他处。如今，古巴糖产量很低，不得不依赖进口。一个曾经通过生产和出口糖获得巨大财富的社会，如今依赖从国外进口糖。糖曾是古巴经济的支柱，但土壤枯竭和苏联解体让古巴失去这一支柱。一个国家如何摆脱曾经因为一种商品而被征服、殖民和剥削的命运？糖之后又该何去何从？加勒比地区的国家仍在努力解决这个问题。
In the 1960s, the British sugar colonies gained independence but remained part of the Commonwealth. France kept its Caribbean islands as overseas territories. But across the region, in Jamaica, Martenique, Trinidad, Guadeloupe and French Guiana, little changed. The best lands still belong to white plantation owners, Bequez, as they are known in Martenique. My family was here, there was a big problem. I know them all day, but I know them all day. I know them all day, I know how they manipulated them.
在20世纪60年代，英国的糖殖民地获得了独立，但仍然是英联邦的一部分。法国则保留了其加勒比海岛屿作为海外领土。然而，在整个地区，如牙买加、马提尼克、特立尼达、瓜德罗普和法属圭亚那，变化不大。最好的土地仍属于白人种植园主，在马提尼克他们被称为“贝克斯”。我的家人在这里，曾经有个大问题。我整天都知道他们，我整天都了解他们。我了解他们是如何操控的。
Sugarcane was now cut by black agricultural workers, the descendants of enslaved Africans. The emancipated slaves did not receive compensation in the way the slaveholders did, for the labor, generations and generations of labor that their ancestors had performed. And they were not able to invest that money in their own futures. And so you find generations of poverty succeeding generations of enslavement. Disadvantaged is inherited as well as wealth. Disadvantaged accumulates just as well as capital.
甘蔗现在由黑人工人收割，他们是被奴役非洲人的后代。被解放的奴隶并没有像奴隶主那样因他们祖辈世世代代的劳动而得到赔偿。他们也无法将这些钱投资在自己的未来。因此，代代相传的贫困接替了奴役。劣势和财富一样会被继承，劣势也会像资本一样积累。
The legacy of sugar weighs heavily, on the people and on the depleted soil sacrificed to sugarcane monoculture at the expense of other crops and essential infrastructure. The islands lived largely from sugar, a dangerous addiction. Not that sugar consumption declined quite the opposite. But by the 1960s Caribbean cane sugar was no longer essential to Europe. France and Britain turned to modern intensive agriculture.
糖的遗产对人民和被牺牲用于甘蔗单一种植的贫瘠土壤造成了沉重的影响，牺牲了其他作物和重要的基础设施。这个岛屿在很大程度上依赖于糖，这是一个危险的依赖。糖的消费量并没有减少，实际上恰恰相反。但是到了20世纪60年代，加勒比地区的甘蔗糖对欧洲已经不再是必需品。法国和英国转向了现代集约化农业。
Sugar beet cultivation became fully industrialized. So why import sugar from across the world when it can be produced at home? And interestingly, the first major European agriculture lobby came from beet farmers and the beet sugar industry. This shift was accelerated by Europe's common agricultural policy, which subsidized producers and above all, guaranteed a minimum price for sugar beets. But the guarantee price, which is done in general, meant that the overproduction of price guarantees were set so high that they encouraged overproduction, surplus sugar, then flooded the world market.
甜菜种植完全实现了工业化。那么，为什么要从世界各地进口糖，而在本国就可以生产呢？有趣的是，欧洲第一个主要的农业游说团体来自甜菜农民和甜菜糖产业。这一转变因欧洲的共同农业政策加速推进，该政策对生产者提供补贴，并且最重要的是，保障了甜菜的最低价格。然而，这种价格保障通常导致价格设定过高，鼓励了过度生产，多余的糖随后涌入了世界市场。
As a result, sugar prices on the world market fell steadily in the 1950s and 1960s. So low that producers, especially in the Caribbean and Indian Ocean, could barely survive. This harmful price dumping was the result of protectionism and collusion between European governments and large industrial companies. The price was reduced by the cost of the country. Undercut by subsidized European beet sugar, Caribbean cane sugar lost its place on the world market.
因此，在20世纪50年代和60年代，全球市场上的糖价持续下跌。价格低到了一种地步，使得生产者，尤其是在加勒比地区和印度洋地区的生产者，几乎无法生存。这样的恶性价格倾销是由于欧洲政府和大型工业公司之间的保护主义和串通造成的。由于欧洲甜菜糖的补贴，导致价格低于这些国家的生产成本，加勒比的甘蔗糖在全球市场上失去了优势地位。
From Jamaica to Martinique, owners shuttered plantations and factories. Well, when the sugar economy collapses, these Caribbean economies cast about looking for other ways to make their national income. So they're still oriented toward growing agricultural products for exports. So bananas became a crop that a lot of people grow. They're still oriented toward catering to Europeans and others. So tourism becomes a way that they try to prosper nationally. Now, none of these things really replaces the profitability of sugar.
从牙买加到马提尼克，庄园和工厂的业主纷纷关闭。当糖业经济崩溃时，这些加勒比国家便开始寻找其他方法来获取国家收入。因此，他们仍然倾向于种植用于出口的农产品。香蕉成为了许多人种植的作物。他们也依然注重迎合欧洲人和其他游客，因此旅游业成为他们尝试提高国家繁荣的一种方式。然而，这些措施都无法真正取代糖业的利润。
This month, is it the last time you've worked? It's the last time I've worked with you. Three days you've worked. And you think you've been working for two months? No, it's not. It's not. It's not. But everyone, it's not only the world but also the same. Unemployment rose, hitting young people the hardest, many emigrated. Once again, sugar drove people into exile this time from the islands to Europe.
这个月是你最后一次工作吗？这是我最后一次和你一起工作。你只工作了三天，你以为你工作了两个月？不，不是的。这不仅仅是个别现象，全世界都是如此。失业率上升，对年轻人的打击最大，很多人因此移居海外。再次，是糖业将人们逼得离乡背井，这次是从岛屿到欧洲。
In France, they became known as the Bumidom generation, named after the government agency founded in 1963 to bring young people from overseas areas, primarily Martinique, Guadeloupe and Réunion to France. They supplied cheap labor for the post-war economic boom. In the UK, their counterparts were the Windrush generation, who traveled from Jamaica, Trinidad and Tobago, and St. Kitts and Nevis, to work on construction sites in London, Birmingham and Manchester.
在法国，他们被称为“Bumidom一代”，这个名字来源于1963年成立的一个政府机构，该机构旨在把海外地区的年轻人，主要是来自马提尼克、瓜德罗普和留尼汪的年轻人，带到法国。他们为战后经济繁荣提供了廉价劳动力。在英国，与之对应的是“温德拉什一代”，他们从牙买加、特立尼达和多巴哥以及圣基茨和尼维斯前来，主要在伦敦、伯明翰和曼彻斯特的建筑工地工作。
They were workers Britain desperately needed until the economic crisis of the late 1970s took away the jobs they were brought in for. Because jobs remained scarce back at home, many saw work on the sugar cane fields as their only option. And so thousands of Jamaicans turned to Florida, the new land of sugar and opportunity. The men lined up to representatives either from the companies or from the Florida Fruit and Vegetable Association. And these fellows want to see their hands, they'll feel them to see if they have calluses. They ask you the questions, you know, you will in a work, what kind of work you do and you tell them farm work bosses. You will in a work seven days a week, yes boss, you will in a year price and for all that.
他们曾是英国迫切需要的工人，直到20世纪70年代末的经济危机让他们失去了最初招募他们的工作机会。由于在国内工作仍然稀缺，许多人将甘蔗田的工作视为唯一的选择。因此，数以千计的牙买加人转向佛罗里达，这片新的糖和机会之地。那些人排队等待公司或佛罗里达水果和蔬菜协会的代表面试。这些人想看看他们的手，感受有没有老茧。他们会问你一些问题，比如你是否愿意干活，你做过什么样的工作，而你会回答说做农活的。你愿意一周工作七天吗？是的，老板，为了这些条件，我愿意。
I get this video and I start looking at it and I see these guys with their hands out, I see them bending, I see them, you know, feeling muscles and I think, man it's exactly. In 1989, David Gorman and two other attorneys filed a lawsuit against Florida's largest sugar producers. They sued on behalf of 20,000 Jamaican sugar cane cutters. Migrant workers paid peace work wages far below the US minimum wage, the case we drag on for years. When I watch it, I feel that we got screwed, they got screwed, we got screwed. We should have won. The Jamaican workers were employed under the temporary H2 visa program. The sugar industry made extensive use of this program well into the 1990s.
我看这个视频，发现有人伸出手、弯腰、触摸肌肉，我心想，这不正是这样吗？1989年，大卫·戈尔曼和另外两位律师对佛罗里达最大的制糖公司提起诉讼。他们代表两万名牙买加甘蔗工人起诉。这些移民工人的计件工资远远低于美国的最低工资标准，这个案件拖了多年。当我看到时，觉得我们被坑了，他们被坑了，我们都被坑了。我们本该赢的。牙买加工人是通过临时H2签证项目聘用的，制糖业在整个1990年代都广泛使用这个项目。
I am an H2 worker coming from the island of Jomieta. I am an H2 worker cutting key in a Florida. Working so hard in the burning sun, wondering if slavery really don't work in, working, working on your key and feed still. You turn on another road and you turn another road and there is this barrack in the middle of nowhere holding 3,000 men. And the music, water dripping from the ceiling, the proximity of the men sleeping next to one another. It was in my early 20s at the time and it was the closest I had ever seen in my life of something akin to slavery. Some time they put the king price at the $120.00. The next needed drop it at the $105.00 and such a life.
我是来自乔梅塔岛的H2签证工人。我在佛罗里达州做剪钥匙的工作。在烈日下辛勤工作，不禁怀疑这种工作是否与奴隶制无异，我依然在为你剪钥匙和提供食物。你转到另一条路，又转到另一条路，在荒郊野外发现一个容纳3000人的营房。音乐声、水从天花板滴落，男人们挨着挨着睡的情景让我感到震惊。当时我才二十出头，这是我见过最接近奴隶制的场景。有时候，他们把价格定在120美元，下一次又降到105美元，这就是我的生活。
They keep on. So every time they see you cutting the king fast, every time you make up quick money, they drop the price low and low. The next day. It's a crime. They contractually agreed to come and work for a certain amount of money. They were not paid that. They were not provided the housing that they contractually agreed to. They weren't provided the medical care. They were not provided anything that was promised to them and yet they provided what was requested of them for the sugar industry. The vast plantations are still owned by the same corporation today, Florida crystals.
他们一直这样做。所以每次看到你快速赚钱，他们都会把价格压低到很低。第二天。这是犯罪。他们合同上同意以一定的金额来工作，但没有得到相应的报酬。合同中承诺的住房也没有提供，医疗保障也没有兑现。他们没有得到任何承诺的东西，但却提供了糖业需要的劳动力。大片的种植园至今仍由同一个公司拥有：佛罗里达水晶公司。
At its helm are two brothers originally from Cuba, Alfonso Fangul, Nunes Alfie and Jose Fangul, Nunes Pepe. People ask me, what do you do? What are your professions? I say former. And sometimes I look at me, former. So I am. I've done everything in a form. It's an American success story. Two self-made men who had fled Cuba in 1959 to escape communism and went on to become billionaires. The sons of a Cuban sugar manufacturer built a vast sugar empire. First, Florida crystals, then the world's largest refined sugar company, American Sugar Refining, known as ASR.
在这家公司掌舵的是两位来自古巴的兄弟，阿方索·方古尔（Nunes Alfie）和何塞·方古尔（Nunes Pepe）。人们常问我，你是做什么的？你的职业是什么？我说：前任。人们有时会看着我，前任？是的，我就是这样。我在一个领域做过所有事情。这是一个美国成功故事。两位白手起家的兄弟在1959年逃离古巴以躲避共产主义，后来成为了亿万富翁。他们的父亲是一位古巴制糖商。在美国，他们建立了一个庞大的制糖帝国。最初是佛罗里达水晶（Florida Crystals），接着是世界上最大的精炼糖公司——美国制糖精炼公司（ASR）。
The name traces back to the company of America's sugar baron, Henry Osborne Havomir. They saw a bottom large part of the old Havomir Trust. Today it is the largest sugar refinery conglomerates in the world, and a leader in sugar production and marketing. A true success story. Subsidized by the US government. The sugar industry has an arrangement under US law that is more favorable than any other agricultural industry. They have a program that is just every other agricultural commodity will kill for after the Cuban revolution in 1961.
这个名字可以追溯到美国的糖业大亨亨利·奥斯本·哈沃米尔的公司。他们从老哈沃米尔信托基金中看到了一个巨大机会。如今，它已成为全球最大的制糖企业集团，糖的生产和营销领域的领军者，堪称一个成功的典范。该公司受到美国政府的补贴。根据美国法律，糖业享有的优惠政策比其他任何农业行业都要优越。在1961年古巴革命之后，他们还制定了一个令其他农业商品都垂涎的项目。
The US wanted to become independent of reliance on foreign sugar. So to increase US sugar production, they didn't put on a tariff per se. What they did was they put in a guarantee. In other words, if you grow sugar in the United States, we'll agree on a price. The government will set a price. And if you cannot sell your sugar at that price, the US government will buy it from you. And it's a price that guarantees a profit every year. You will never lose money on sugar. Like Europe, the United States protects its sugar producers and its market.
美国希望减少对外国糖的依赖，因此想提高本国的糖产量。他们并没有直接对糖加税，而是采取了保障措施。也就是说，如果你在美国种植糖，美国政府会和你商定一个价格。如果你不能按照这个价格卖出你的糖，美国政府就会买下。这是一个每年都能保证盈利的价格，让你在糖的生产上不会亏本。像欧洲一样，美国也通过这样的方式保护本国的糖生产者和市场。
And since the 1960s, the fanhole brothers have worked to ensure it remains that way. The fanholes were very smart politically. They made the very smart political decision that one would be a major contributor to the Democratic Party, the other would be a contributor to the Republicans. So did the funhool's strategy pay off? In 1992, a judge ruled in favor of the workers. The sugar barons were ordered to pay $51 million in unpaid wages and compensation. You know, we used to joke around about being able to go down to Jamaica and hand out money. And they took an appeal.
自20世纪60年代以来，Fanholes兄弟一直努力确保这种状况得以维持。Fanholes在政治上非常聪明，他们做出了一项非常明智的政治决定：一个兄弟成为了民主党的主要捐助者，而另一个兄弟则成为了共和党的捐助者。那么，Fanholes的策略奏效了吗？1992年，一名法官裁定支持工人，糖业大亨被判支付5100万美元的未付工资和赔偿金。你知道，我们曾经开玩笑说可以去牙买加发放钱。随后，他们提出了上诉。
And the Appellate Court reversed. They decided that the contract was ambiguous. I've done this work for 45 years. I've done more farm-worker cases than any attorney in the country. I've won more farm-worker cases than anyone in the country. And this is the one that got away. They didn't want to pay the money and they were willing to pay their lawyers. And their lawyers gambled and won, essentially. Their victory was comprehensive.
上诉法院推翻了之前的判决。他们认为合同存在歧义。我从事这项工作已有45年，办理的农场工人案件比全国任何律师都多，赢的案件也比其他任何人都多。而这一次却没有成功。他们不想支付钱款，但愿意付给律师费。他们的律师冒险，并成功了。他们的胜利是全面的。
After the trial, the fanholes quickly replaced sugar cane workers on their Florida plantations with harvesting machines, luring costs, and eliminating workers altogether. And their empire has continued to expand. Since 1984, the funhool brothers have also operated plantations and refineries in the Dominican Republic, just a two-hour flight from Miami. Central Romana, the country's largest sugar producer, is largely controlled by the fan-hole family and forms part of their broader corporate empire.
审判结束后，这些风洞迅速在佛罗里达的种植园中用收割机器取代了甘蔗工人，从而降低了成本，并完全消除了工人。而他们的帝国仍在不断扩张。自1984年以来，方霍尔兄弟还在多米尼加共和国经营种植园和炼糖厂，该国距离迈阿密仅两个小时的航程。该国最大的糖生产商Central Romana，很大程度上由方霍尔家族控制，并构成了他们更广泛的企业帝国的一部分。
Here, Haitian migrant workers paid by the cut are still cheaper than machines. Like Florida crystals and dominoes sugar, central Romana is part of the funhool brothers empire in the US. This empire was built in the province of El Sabo by taking land from small farmers. Like this public land, where displaced families now live in makeshift chats on the edge of a central Romana plantation. At 3 o'clock in the morning on January 26th, 2016, private security forces employed by central Romana arrived and destroyed more than 80 homes.
这里，本地的古巴移民工人的工资按照切割数量计算，相比使用机器仍然便宜。中央罗马纳公司就像佛罗里达结晶糖和多米诺糖业一样，属于美国丰胡尔兄弟的企业。这一企业是在埃尔萨博省通过夺取小农土地建立起来的。比如这些公共土地，如今被迫迁徙的家庭住在中央罗马纳种植园边缘的简陋房屋中。2016年1月26日凌晨3点，中央罗马纳公司雇佣的私人保安人员抵达，并摧毁了80多户家庭的住所。
The farmers were unable to present formal documents, the land belonged to the community. When the company took it, the dignity of many people was violated. Dominican families lost their homes. States visited Central Scholaris and the owners, using American patriots as they were given the Purges to allow to store books and parties for them, when daring to act against it. Central Romana is the real power here, standing above everyone, including the president. When we met with a provincial governor, he told us there was nothing he could do.
农民们无法提供正式文件，土地属于社区。当公司占据这些土地时，许多人的尊严受到了侵犯。多米尼加家庭失去了他们的家园。有人来访问中央学者和地方法人，他们利用美国爱国者的身份获得了许可，可以为他们存书和举办聚会，当有人敢于反对时，就进行清洗。在这里，中央罗曼纳是真正的权力，凌驾于所有人之上，甚至包括总统。当我们会见一位省长时，他告诉我们他无能为力。
If he tried, he said he'd be removed from office within minutes. In 2022, a US government investigation confirmed the allegations against Central Romana in the Dominican Republic. An import ban was imposed on the company, a ban the funhole swiftly contested. In March 2025, the ban was lifted shortly after Donald Trump's re-election. Pepe Fanhole is one of his largest donors. Over the past centuries, the number of sugar plantations and overall sugar production expanded dramatically.
如果他尝试这样做，他表示将在几分钟内被免职。2022年，美国政府的一项调查证实了针对多米尼加共和国中央罗马纳公司的指控，随后对该公司实施了进口禁令，但这个问题迅速遭到争议。2025年3月，唐纳德·特朗普重新当选后不久，这项禁令被解除。佩佩·范霍尔是特朗普最大捐助者之一。在过去的几个世纪里，糖种植园的数量和整体糖产量显著增加。
Today, just seven or eight major companies dominate the industry and maintain close ties with governments. In Europe, these include Zudzucker, Germany, Tariots and France, potato, Laila, England and the fanholes in Florida. And then there's Kossan and Ryzen in Brazil. Sugarcane has been grown there since the 16th century. Today, Brazil is the world's largest sugar producer and exporter.
如今，只有七八家主要公司主导着这一行业，并与各国政府保持着密切联系。在欧洲，这些公司包括德国的Zudzucker、法国的Tariots、英国的Laila和位于佛罗里达的fanholes。在巴西，还有Kossan和Ryzen。自16世纪以来，巴西就开始种植甘蔗。如今，巴西是世界上最大 的食糖生产国和出口国。
The international oil crisis made Brazil aware of how dependent it was on fossil fuels. In response, the country decided to subsidize the production of ethanol. When oil prices soared in 1973, Brazilians turned to a resource they had at home. In 1975, the National Pro-Aulcall Program was launched, promoting the production of bioethanol from sugarcane. Ever since, Brazil has relied on biofuel as an alternative to fossil fuels.
国际石油危机让巴西意识到它对化石燃料的依赖程度。作为应对，巴西决定补贴乙醇的生产。当1973年油价猛涨时，巴西人转向他们国内已有的一种资源。1975年，巴西启动了国家乙醇计划，推动用甘蔗生产生物乙醇。从那时起，巴西就依靠生物燃料作为化石燃料的替代品。
So, could sugar help save the planet and humanity? An energy transition is taking shape in São Paulo, Brazil's richest state, and a stronghold of industrial agriculture. 14% of the world's sugar is produced here. 6 million hectares are under cultivation. Half of the area is dedicated to making bioethanol. This soil is becoming compacted. As in Florida, harvesting is now done entirely by machine. The environmental pollution caused by burning ethanol is much lower than that caused by gasoline or diesel.
那么，糖能够帮助拯救地球和人类吗？在巴西最富裕的州圣保罗，一个能源转型正在形成，这里也是工业农业的重镇。全球有14%的糖产自于此。该地区有600万公顷的土地用于种植，其中一半的面积用于生产生物乙醇。由于像佛罗里达一样，采收工作现在完全依靠机器进行，这里的土壤开始变得紧实。燃烧乙醇所造成的环境污染比汽油或柴油要低得多。
The air may be cleaner, but this calculation must also include soil degradation, the exploitation of workers, deforestation, river pollution, and the death of plants and animals. And then there are the effects of drought made worse by deforestation and vast monocultures. In 2024, fire sparked by negligence in Arson, tore through tens of thousands of hectares of plantation land in the state of São Paulo, shrouding nearly half of Brazil in smoke. And yet, markets barely flinched.
空气也许更加清新，但在计算时必须考虑到土壤退化、工人剥削、森林砍伐、河流污染以及植物和动物的死亡。此外，还有由于森林砍伐和大片单一作物种植导致的干旱恶化。在2024年，一个源于人为疏忽的大火席卷了巴西圣保罗州数万公顷的种植园土地，烟雾笼罩了将近半个巴西。然而，市场几乎没有受到影响。
The outlook remained optimistic. Growth, it seemed, would continue. The sugar industry knows no limits. It seeks to destroy and annihilate everything around it. For around 500 years, people and land across every continent have been exploited to sweeten our lives. Sugar has left a heavy legacy behind, racism, overconsumption, and a reckless approach to nature. And Okan Airfn is from Bruxi Clos Omhan with Natura. Slavery, displacement, forced labor and environmental destruction. It's the bitter price of our collective addiction to sugar. cant by 18,235. EARREN.
前景依然乐观，增长似乎会持续。糖业似乎没有止境，它试图摧毁和消灭周围的一切。大约500年来，各大洲的人类和土地被用来为我们提供甜美的生活。糖留下了沉重的遗产：种族主义、过度消费以及对自然的不负责任态度。来自Bruxi Clos Omhan的Okan Airfn与Natura（环保组织）探讨这一问题。奴隶制、流离失所、强迫劳动和环境破坏，是我们集体沉迷于糖所付出的苦涩代价。